Identification
Physical Characteristics
Size: These are some of Australia's largest bees. Females can range from 15-25mm in length. Males are of a similar size.
Coloration: Color varies by species. The 'Great Carpenter Bees' (Xylocopa subgenus Koptortosoma) are typically glossy, metallic black or dark blue, with dark smoky wings. The 'Teddy Bear Bees' (Xylocopa subgenus Lestis) are densely covered in fuzzy, golden-brown or orange fur, resembling a bumblebee. Males of some species can be entirely golden or straw-coloured.
Biology & Lifecycle
Reproduction
A single female will create and provision a gallery containing anywhere from 6 to 10 brood cells in a season.
Generations Per Year
Typically one generation per year, though in warmer, tropical regions, there may be more than one.
Social Structure
Generally solitary, but can be considered primitively social. Each female typically excavates and provisions her own nest tunnel. However, sometimes daughters may remain in their mother's nest, sharing a common entrance but provisioning their own side galleries. They do not have a social caste system like honey bees.
Development Time
The complete cycle from egg to emerging adult usually takes five to seven weeks.
Seasonal Cycle
Adults emerge from overwintering in spring. This is the peak time for mating and the excavation of new nests. Larval development occurs over summer, with new adults emerging in late summer or autumn. These new adults will then overwinter.
Lifecycle Details
Egg Stage
After excavating a tunnel, the female creates a series of sealed chambers or 'brood cells' within it. In each cell, she first places a large ball of pollen mixed with nectar, called 'bee bread'. She then lays a single, large egg on top of this provision and seals the cell with a partition made of chewed wood pulp (frass).
Larval Stage
The egg hatches into a larva which then consumes the bee bread provided for it within its sealed cell. This is its entire food supply for its development. The larva grows rapidly, molting several times within the chamber. This stage can last for several weeks.
Pupal Stage
Once the larva has consumed all its food and is fully grown, it pupates within the same brood cell. During this non-feeding stage, it undergoes a complete metamorphosis, transforming from a pale, grub-like larva into its adult form with legs, wings, and characteristic colouring.
Adult Stage
After metamorphosis is complete, the new adult bee will chew its way out of its cell and then out of the main tunnel entrance. The development time from egg to adult can take around 5-7 weeks, depending on temperature. The new adults emerge, feed on nectar, and mate. The founding female may live for a year. Often, the newly emerged bees will overwinter as adults within their natal tunnels before beginning their own nesting activities the following spring.
Reproduction Rate
A single female will create and provision a gallery containing anywhere from 6 to 10 brood cells in a season.
Generations Per Year
Typically one generation per year, though in warmer, tropical regions, there may be more than one.
Development Time
The complete cycle from egg to emerging adult usually takes five to seven weeks.
Seasonal Cycle
Adults emerge from overwintering in spring. This is the peak time for mating and the excavation of new nests. Larval development occurs over summer, with new adults emerging in late summer or autumn. These new adults will then overwinter.
Environmental Factors
The availability of suitable nesting material (untreated softwood) and abundant floral resources (nectar and pollen) are the key factors governing their presence and success.
Habitat & Distribution
Preferred Habitats
- Forests and woodlands with dead standing trees or logs
- Suburban environments with wooden structures
- They are attracted to any source of untreated, unpainted softwood.
- Areas with abundant flowering plants for foraging.
Distribution Patterns
Australian Distribution
Found across most of Australia. The golden 'Teddy Bear Bees' are more common in eastern states (Queensland, NSW, Victoria). The large, black Great Carpenter Bees are found in northern and eastern Australia.
Climate Zones
- Tropical
- Subtropical
- Temperate
Urban vs Rural Distribution
Found in both rural bushland (nesting in dead trees) and urban environments, where they readily adapt to using man-made wooden structures.
Introduction History
Not applicable.
Current Spread
Distribution is stable and follows the availability of suitable habitat. Increased use of timber in construction may have facilitated their success in suburban areas.
Limiting Factors
Limited by the absence of suitable wood for nesting or a lack of flowering plants. They are less common in the most arid parts of the country and in cold, alpine regions.
Behavior & Diet
Activity Pattern
Diurnal. They are active during warm, sunny days, foraging for nectar and pollen and working on their nests. They are often most active from mid-morning to late afternoon.
Foraging Behavior
They are important pollinators. Females forage for nectar and pollen from a wide variety of flowering plants. They are 'buzz pollinators', meaning they can vibrate their bodies to shake pollen loose from flowers that hold it tightly, such as those of tomatoes, eggplants, and many native Australian shrubs. Some species are also known for 'nectar robbing'—chewing a hole in the base of a long flower to access the nectar without pollinating it.
Nesting Behavior
This is their defining characteristic. A female chews a perfectly circular hole, about 1-1.5cm in diameter, into a wooden surface. The entrance tunnel goes in for a few centimetres and then turns at a right angle to follow the grain of the wood. This main gallery can be 15-30cm long. Within this gallery, she constructs a line of individual brood cells. They often return to the same nesting sites year after year, extending their old tunnels or boring new ones.
Territorial Behavior
Males are highly territorial. They will select a perch near a nesting site and aggressively chase away any other flying insect that comes near, including other bees, flies, and even birds or humans. This is all a bluff, as males have no stinger and are harmless. They are simply trying to protect their patch to ensure access to females.
Defensive Behavior
Females are not aggressive and will avoid stinging unless they are physically handled or their nest is directly threatened. Males are all bluff and have no sting, but their loud buzzing and dive-bombing behaviour can be very intimidating.
Communication
Primarily through chemical and visual signals, especially during mating. The loud buzzing sound they make is also a form of communication.
Dietary Preferences
Feeding Habits
Herbivorous, feeding on nectar and pollen.
Primary Food Sources
- Nectar from a wide range of native and ornamental flowers for energy.
- Pollen from flowers, which is the sole protein source for their developing larvae.
- They are attracted to large, open-faced flowers and plants in the pea and bean family.
Foraging Range
They are strong fliers and can forage over a wide area, travelling several hundred metres or more from their nest.
Feeding Schedule
Forage throughout the day during sunny weather.
Seasonal Diet Changes
Diet changes based on the seasonal availability of different flowering plants.
Health Risks
Always consult healthcare professionals for medical concerns related to pest exposure.
Disease Transmission
- They are not known to transmit any diseases to humans.
Allergens and Respiratory Issues
Like any bee, their venom can cause allergic reactions. However, because they are not aggressive and stings are very rare, they are considered a much lower risk than honey bees or wasps.
Contamination Risk
None. They do not interact with human food.
Vulnerable Populations
- People with a known bee venom allergy should be cautious, though the risk of a sting is low.
- Children should be taught not to touch the bees or poke things into their nest holes.
Symptoms of Exposure
- A sting would cause immediate, sharp pain, followed by localized swelling, redness, and itching, similar to a honey bee or bumblebee sting.
- Allergic (anaphylactic) reactions are possible in sensitized individuals and would present with the same symptoms as a honey bee sting allergy (difficulty breathing, etc.), requiring immediate medical attention.
Transmission Methods
- Health risk is solely from the venom injected by a female's sting.
Risk Severity
Low. The female has a painful sting, but she is very docile. Males are harmless. The risk of being stung is extremely low unless you are handling the bee or directly blocking its nest entrance.
Economic Impact
Treatment Costs
Professional Treatment
$150-$400 for treatment of active galleries in a localized area.
Prevention Costs
$50-$500+ for painting or sealing timber structures, depending on the size.
Diy Treatment
$20-$50 for insecticidal dust/spray and wood filler.
Property Damage
Structural Damage
The primary economic impact. A single gallery does little harm. However, bees often reuse and extend tunnels each year. Multiple bees may nest in the same piece of timber, creating a network of galleries that can weaken the wood over time. This can lead to the need to replace fascia boards, railings, or outdoor furniture. The damage is primarily cosmetic at first but can become structural over many seasons.
Garden Damage
None. They are beneficial pollinators.
Food Contamination
None.
Equipment Damage
Can damage wooden handles of tools or garden equipment if left outside.
Business Impact
Restaurant Issues
May cause concern if they are nesting in wooden outdoor furniture or pergolas in a dining area.
Retail Impact
Minimal, unless wooden structures at a business premises are affected.
Reputation Damage
Unlikely.
Operational Disruption
None.
Agricultural Impact
Crop Damage
None.
Yield Loss
None.
Beneficial Aspects
They are highly effective native pollinators for a range of crops, including passionfruit, tomatoes, and various legumes. Their ability to 'buzz pollinate' makes them more efficient than honey bees for certain types of flowers.
Economic Loss
Economic loss is restricted to the cost of repairing or replacing damaged timber. This is offset by their value as pollinators.
Indirect Costs
Healthcare Costs
Very low, due to the rarity of stings.
Cleanup Costs
Minimal. May involve cleaning up sawdust (frass) below the nest entrance.
Replacement Costs
The cost of replacing damaged timber beams, decks, or furniture can be significant.
Preventive Maintenance
The cost of regularly painting or sealing wooden structures.
Detection & Signs
Visual Signs
- The most obvious sign: a perfectly circular, 10-15mm diameter hole in a wooden surface.
- Large bees hovering near the eaves, decks, or other wooden structures of your home.
- Territorial males dive-bombing you if you approach a nesting area.
- Yellowish or brownish stains on the surface of the wood below the entrance hole, caused by pollen and waste.
Physical Evidence
- Piles of coarse sawdust on the ground or on surfaces directly below the entrance hole. This is the excavated wood pulp, known as frass.
- Finding dead bees or bee parts near the nesting site.
Behavioral Signs
- A loud buzzing or scraping sound coming from within the wood as the female excavates her gallery.
- Seeing a female entering or leaving the hole, often with pollen on her legs.
Seasonal Indicators
- Peak nesting activity occurs in spring and early summer. This is when you are most likely to see new holes appearing.
- Hovering, territorial males are also a key sign in spring.
Early Warning Signals
- Seeing a large female carpenter bee paying close attention to your timber structures, inspecting them for a suitable nesting site.
- Finding small piles of fresh sawdust is the very first sign that excavation has begun.
Prevention
Sanitation Measures
- Not applicable, as they are not drawn to sanitation issues.
Exclusion Methods
- The single most effective method is to make the wood unattractive to them. Carpenter bees strongly prefer bare, untreated, and unpainted wood.
- Painting or varnishing all exposed timber surfaces is the best deterrent. A thick, glossy coat is more effective than a simple stain.
- Use hardwood for construction where possible, as they find it much harder to excavate.
- If you find old, abandoned holes, seal them with wood putty or dowel to prevent other bees from reusing them.
Landscaping Tips
- There are no landscaping changes that will reliably deter them. The focus must be on protecting the wooden structures themselves.
- Some people try hanging bee 'hotels' away from the house to provide an alternative nesting site, with mixed results.
Monitoring Strategies
- In early spring, conduct a visual inspection of all wooden structures on your property, especially fascia boards, eaves, and decks. Look for any new holes or signs of sawdust.
- Pay attention to where you see large bees hovering consistently.
Environmental Modification
- Replace vulnerable softwoods with composite materials or hardwoods in areas prone to attack.
Control Methods
Professional Treatment Methods
Chemical Control
A pest control professional will inject a small amount of insecticidal dust (e.g., permethrin or deltamethrin) directly into the entrance of each active gallery. The female will carry this dust into the gallery, killing her and any developing larvae. The dust remains active to kill emerging adults later.
Biological Control
Not applicable.
Physical Control
After the chemical treatment has taken effect (after a few days), the entrance hole should be plugged with wood putty, caulk, or a wooden dowel to prevent re-use and to protect the timber from moisture.
Integrated Approach
An IPM approach involves: 1) Identifying active galleries. 2) Treating each gallery with insecticidal dust. 3) Waiting a few days for the treatment to work. 4) Plugging the holes. 5) Applying a preventative paint or varnish to all surrounding vulnerable timber to prevent future nesting.
DIY Treatment Options
Natural Remedies
Spraying citrus oils or almond oil into the galleries is sometimes suggested, but the effectiveness is unproven and temporary at best.
Home Made Traps
Carpenter bee traps, which are wooden boxes with pre-drilled holes that lead to a container, can be purchased or made. They can catch some bees but are unlikely to solve an established problem.
Deterrent Methods
The best deterrent is paint. Some people report that playing loud music near the nest can temporarily disrupt them, but this is not a practical solution.
Mechanical Control
For DIY treatment, you can spray an insecticidal dust or an aerosol spray with a straw attachment directly into the gallery entrance. It is crucial to do this in the evening when the female is most likely to be inside. Afterwards, the hole must be plugged.
Treatment Effectiveness
Success Rate
Direct treatment of galleries with insecticidal dust has a very high success rate. Preventative painting is also highly effective.
Timeframe
The active bee should be killed within 24-48 hours of treatment. The residual dust will handle any emerging brood.
Follow Up Required
Plugging the hole after treatment is essential. It's also vital to inspect the area the following spring to ensure no new galleries have been created.
Seasonal Considerations
Treatment is best done in the evening to ensure the female is in the nest. The ideal time of year is spring, as soon as activity is noticed, to prevent the creation of a full gallery of offspring.
Application Techniques
- Using a puffer or hand duster to apply a fine layer of insecticidal dust into the entrance hole.
- Using an aerosol spray with a thin nozzle to direct the chemical into the gallery.
- Sealing the treated hole with wood filler or caulk after a few days.
Professional Services
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Browse All ProvidersSeasonal Patterns
Spring Activity
Peak season. Overwintering adults emerge, males establish territories, mating occurs, and females begin excavating new nests or extending old ones. This is when most new damage occurs.
Summer Activity
Females continue to provision their nests. Larvae are developing within the galleries. Foraging activity is high on sunny days.
Autumn Activity
New adults emerge from the galleries. They will feed to build up reserves before seeking shelter for the winter, often within their natal tunnels. Activity declines as temperatures drop.
Winter Activity
The bees become dormant, sheltering as adults inside the protected wooden galleries. They do not fly or forage during winter.
Breeding Season
Spring is the primary breeding and nesting season.
Peak Activity Period
New 'infestations' or damage occurs in spring. The bees are most visible and active from spring to late summer.
Environmental Factors
Temperature Effects
Warm, sunny weather is required for all activity, including foraging and nest building.
Humidity Effects
They prefer dry wood. High humidity and rain will halt activity.
Photoperiod Effects
Longer days in spring and summer correlate with their peak activity periods.
Weather Patterns
They are fair-weather flyers and will remain in their nests during rain or strong winds.
Legal Considerations
Pest Status
They do not have an official pest status. They are native bees that can become a structural pest due to their nesting habits.
Control Regulations
No specific regulations govern their control, but licensed technicians must use registered pesticides according to the label.
Professional Requirements
A pest control license is required for any commercial application of insecticides.
Environmental Considerations
As important native pollinators, killing them should be a last resort. Prevention (painting wood) is always the preferred option. Treatment should be highly targeted to the specific galleries causing damage, avoiding broad-spectrum spraying.
Compliance Requirements
- Pest controllers must adhere to APVMA label requirements and workplace health and safety laws.
Frequently Asked Questions
Are Carpenter Bees dangerous? Will they sting me?
Carpenter bees are generally not dangerous. Only the female has a stinger, and she is quite docile and non-aggressive. She will only sting if she is directly handled, squeezed, or feels her life is in immediate danger. The risk of being stung by a female is very low. The males, which are often seen hovering aggressively around nesting sites and even dive-bombing people, have no stinger at all and are completely harmless. Their aggressive display is all a bluff to protect their territory from rivals. So, while a female *can* deliver a painful sting, she is very reluctant to do so, making them a low-risk insect compared to the more defensive honey bees or aggressive wasps.
How can I tell if the damage to my deck is from termites or carpenter bees?
The damage from termites and carpenter bees is very different. Carpenter bees create very visible, external evidence. You will see perfectly circular entrance holes on the surface of the wood, about 1 to 1.5 cm in diameter. Below these holes, you will often find small piles of coarse sawdust, which is the wood they have excavated. The damage is localized to these galleries. Termites, on the other hand, are cryptic and cause damage from the inside out. You will typically not see any external holes. Termite damage is often hidden within the timber, which may sound hollow when tapped. You might find mud tubes on the foundations or see blistering or darkening of the wood surface. If you break a piece of damaged wood open, termite galleries will be gritty and filled with mud and soil, whereas a carpenter bee gallery will be clean and smooth inside.
What is the most effective way to get rid of Carpenter Bees?
The most effective way to get rid of an active carpenter bee nest is a two-step process. First, you must treat the gallery to eliminate the bee and her offspring. The best method is to inject a small amount of an insecticidal dust directly into the entrance hole. This is best done in the evening when the female is most likely to be inside. She will track the dust through the gallery, ensuring its effectiveness. After waiting a few days for the insecticide to work, the second crucial step is to plug the hole securely with wood putty, caulk, or a wooden dowel. This prevents the gallery from being reused by other carpenter bees in the future and protects the wood from moisture. Simply plugging the hole without treating it first is ineffective, as the bee can chew a new way out.
How can I prevent Carpenter Bees from making nests in my house?
Prevention is far more effective than treatment when it comes to carpenter bees. Their single biggest attractant is bare, unpainted, or weathered wood. The most effective preventative measure is to paint or varnish all vulnerable timber surfaces, especially softwoods like pine and cedar on your eaves, fascia boards, decks, and railings. A thick coat of oil-based or polyurethane paint is a powerful deterrent, as they do not like to chew through it. If you have existing, unused carpenter bee holes, seal them with wood putty to make the site unattractive for future nesting. When building new structures, consider using hardwood, which is more resistant to them, or composite materials that they cannot chew. By removing the bare wood they find so attractive, you can effectively design them out of your home.
What is a 'Teddy Bear Bee' and is it a type of Carpenter Bee?
Yes, the 'Teddy Bear Bee' is a common name for a specific type of native Australian carpenter bee, from the subgenus *Lestis*. Unlike the large, shiny black carpenter bees, Teddy Bear Bees are covered in a dense coat of beautiful, velvety, golden-brown fur, making them look like a flying teddy bear or a bumblebee. They are still carpenter bees, however, and they share the same nesting behaviour of boring circular tunnels into wood, although they often prefer to nest in the soft pith of dead flower stalks of plants like grass trees (*Xanthorrhoea*) or agave, rather than structural timber. They are excellent native pollinators and, like other female carpenter bees, are very placid and unlikely to sting. Seeing one in your garden is a wonderful sign of a healthy ecosystem.
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