Identification
Physical Characteristics
Size: A medium-sized, stocky bird, typically measuring 23 to 26 cm from beak to tail.
Coloration: The body is a solid chocolate-brown. The head and neck are a glossy black, creating a hooded appearance. The beak is bright yellow, and a patch of bare yellow skin extends from below to behind the eye. The legs and feet are also bright yellow. In flight, a large white patch is clearly visible on each wing, and the tip of the tail is also white. Juveniles are duller in colour, with a browner head and less vibrant yellow features.
Key Features: The combination of the brown body, black 'hood', and the bright yellow bill, legs, and bare eye-patch is unmistakable. The flash of white on the wings in flight is another key identifier.
Biology & Lifecycle
Development & Reproduction
Reproduction Rate: Highly prolific. They can raise two or sometimes three broods in a single breeding season, especially in urban areas with abundant food. This high reproductive rate allows their populations to grow and spread rapidly.
Lifecycle Details
Egg Stage
The breeding season in Australia typically runs from September to March, but they can breed year-round in favourable conditions. The female lays a clutch of 4-5 glossy, pale blue eggs. The nest is an untidy, large cup or dome made of grasses, leaves, plastic, and other rubbish, usually built within a cavity. Nests are commonly found in tree hollows, roof voids, wall cavities, and under bridges. Incubation is performed by both parents and lasts for 13-18 days.
Larval Stage
This stage is the 'nestling' phase. After hatching, the chicks are featherless, blind, and completely dependent on their parents. Both the male and female are highly attentive, feeding the chicks a diet rich in insects to fuel their rapid growth. The nestling period is characterised by constant feeding and rapid development. The parents are extremely aggressive in defending the nest site against any perceived threat, including other birds, pets, and humans.
Pupal Stage
This stage is the 'fledgling' phase. The young birds leave the nest approximately 20-27 days after hatching. They are able to fly but are still dependent on their parents for food and protection for several more weeks. During this time, they learn essential foraging and social skills. The family group often stays together, and fledglings can be seen following their parents, begging noisily for food.
Adult Stage
Common Mynas reach sexual maturity at around one year of age. They are monogamous and form long-term pair bonds. Their lifespan in the wild can be up to 12 years, though 4-6 years is more typical. Their intelligence and adaptability contribute to their high survival rate in urban environments. As adults, they often join large communal roosts at night, which can number in the hundreds or even thousands.
Reproduction Rate
Highly prolific. They can raise two or sometimes three broods in a single breeding season, especially in urban areas with abundant food. This high reproductive rate allows their populations to grow and spread rapidly.
Generations Per Year
Typically two generations per year, but can be more in optimal conditions.
Development Time
From egg-laying to the fledglings leaving the nest is a rapid process, taking only 5-7 weeks.
Seasonal Cycle
Breeding activity peaks in spring and summer. In autumn and winter, they form large, noisy communal roosts in dense trees or on man-made structures.
Environmental Factors
Their success is directly linked to human modification of the landscape. They thrive in environments with open grassy areas for foraging (like parks and lawns), abundant food scraps, and ample nesting cavities (buildings, exotic trees).
Habitat & Distribution
Preferred Habitats
- Urban and suburban areas: parks, gardens, shopping centre car parks, and outdoor cafes.
- Agricultural lands, especially around livestock and buildings.
- Open woodlands and coastal areas.
- They thrive in human-modified landscapes and are less common in dense, undisturbed forests.
- Roadsides and rubbish tips are also favoured habitats.
Distribution Patterns
Australian Distribution
Well-established along the east coast of Australia, from northern Queensland south through New South Wales and into Victoria. There are also significant populations around major centres like Canberra, Adelaide, and Perth, and they are spreading in Tasmania.
Climate Zones
- Tropical
- Subtropical
- Temperate
- Mediterranean
Urban vs Rural Distribution
Primarily an urban and suburban pest. Their populations are densest in cities and towns. They are also found in agricultural areas but are less common in extensive, undisturbed natural bushland.
Native Range
Native to southern and Southeast Asia.
Introduced Range
Introduced globally to many countries, including Australia, New Zealand, South Africa, and various Pacific islands. It is listed as one of the world's most invasive species.
Introduction History
Intentionally introduced to Melbourne in 1862 and subsequently to other areas, including northern Queensland sugarcane fields, in an ill-fated attempt to control insect pests. The populations then spread from these release points.
Current Spread
Their range is continually expanding. They are moving further inland from the coast, colonising new towns along transport corridors, and adapting to cooler climates in southern Australia.
Limiting Factors
Dense, intact forest habitat limits their spread. In the past, colder climates were a limiting factor, but they appear to be adapting to these conditions.
Behavior & Diet
Activity Pattern
Diurnal. They are active from sunrise to sunset. They spend much of their day foraging on the ground in open areas. In the late afternoon, they gather in increasingly large groups before flying to a communal roosting site for the night.
Dietary Preferences
Feeding Habits
Omnivorous and opportunistic generalists.
Health Risks
Always consult healthcare professionals for medical concerns related to pest exposure.
Disease Transmission
- Potential vectors for avian diseases. While the risk is debated, they can carry parasites and pathogens that could potentially affect poultry and native birds.
- Their droppings can contain pathogens like Salmonella and Campylobacter, posing a risk if they contaminate outdoor dining areas, water tanks, or food preparation surfaces.
- Bird mites (Ornithonyssus bursa): Nests in roof voids often become heavily infested with bird mites. When the mynas abandon the nest, these mites can invade the human living space below, causing intensely itchy, rash-like bites.
- Not a significant vector for diseases directly to humans like mosquitoes, but they contribute to an unhealthy environment.
Allergens and Respiratory Issues
Feathers and dried droppings can become airborne dust, which may trigger respiratory allergies and asthma in sensitive individuals, especially if birds are roosting or nesting on a building.
Contamination Risk
High risk of contamination of outdoor furniture, vehicles, and pathways with their faeces, especially under large communal roosts. Can also contaminate water tanks if they roost or nest on roofs.
Vulnerable Populations
- Residents with myna nests in their roof cavities are at high risk of bird mite infestations.
- People with asthma or respiratory allergies are vulnerable to dust from roosting sites.
- Patrons of outdoor cafes and food courts where mynas scavenge.
- Children playing in parks or schoolyards with large myna populations.
Symptoms of Exposure
- Bird mite bites: Intensely itchy, small red papules, often mistaken for bites from spiders or bed bugs. The itching can be severe and persistent.
- Allergic reactions: Sneezing, wheezing, watery eyes.
- Gastrointestinal illness from faecal contamination: Symptoms like nausea, diarrhoea, and stomach cramps.
Transmission Methods
- Bird mites migrate from an abandoned nest into the house through cracks in the ceiling.
- Inhalation of airborne allergens from dried droppings and feathers.
- Indirect faecal-oral route through contaminated hands, food, or surfaces.
Risk Severity
Moderate. The primary health risks are from bird mite infestations and the potential for disease transmission via faecal contamination.
Economic Impact
Treatment Costs
Professional Treatment
$400 - $1500+ for professional bird proofing (e.g., netting, spikes) and trapping programs.
Prevention Costs
$100 - $500 for DIY proofing materials like gutter guards, mesh for eaves, and bird spikes.
Diy Treatment
$150 - $300 for a quality, humane cage trap, as used by community trapping groups.
Property Damage
Structural Damage
Nesting material can block gutters and drainpipes, causing water overflow and damage. Their droppings are acidic and can corrode metal roofing, paintwork, and masonry over time.
Garden Damage
Can damage soft fruit and vegetable crops in gardens. They are known to pull up seedlings to get at insects in the soil.
Food Contamination
Can contaminate animal feed and stored grain in rural settings.
Equipment Damage
Nesting material in machinery, air conditioning units, or exhaust vents can create a fire hazard or cause equipment to fail.
Business Impact
Restaurant Issues
A major nuisance at outdoor cafes, where they boldly scavenge from tables, harass patrons, and create mess. This can lead to negative customer experiences and poor food safety ratings.
Retail Impact
Can cause significant fouling and mess around shopping centre entrances and food courts.
Reputation Damage
Businesses with a visible and unmanaged myna problem can suffer significant reputational damage.
Operational Disruption
Requires constant cleanup costs for businesses. Large roosts can create public health and safety issues that may require sections of parks or public spaces to be cordoned off.
Agricultural Impact
Crop Damage
They are a significant pest of soft fruit and grain crops, including grapes, figs, berries, and sorghum. They can cause substantial losses by piercing and eating the fruit.
Yield Loss
Can be significant in horticulture, requiring expensive netting to protect valuable crops.
Beneficial Aspects
They do eat some insect pests, like locusts, which was the original reason for their introduction. However, this benefit is vastly outweighed by their negative impacts on native birds and their other pest behaviours.
Economic Loss
The overall economic impact is highly negative, due to crop damage, management costs, and their impact on biodiversity and tourism.
Indirect Costs
Healthcare Costs
Costs associated with treating bird mite infestations and any potential illnesses linked to their droppings.
Cleanup Costs
Significant and ongoing costs for local councils and businesses to clean public spaces, buildings, and outdoor dining areas.
Replacement Costs
Cost of replacing corroded roofing or damaged equipment.
Preventive Maintenance
The high cost of installing bird-proofing measures on commercial and public buildings.
Detection & Signs
Common Signs of Common Myna Activity
- Large amounts of droppings in concentrated areas, particularly on ledges, under bridges, and around buildings
- Visual sightings of live birds, especially in flocks around buildings or food sources
- Nesting materials such as twigs, feathers, and debris in sheltered areas like roof voids, balconies, and building crevices
- Damage to property including stained surfaces from acidic droppings and blocked gutters from nesting materials
- Unpleasant odors from accumulated droppings and decaying nesting materials
- Noise disturbances, particularly early morning cooing, flapping, and scratching sounds
Areas to Check
- Building ledges, window sills, and architectural features that provide shelter
- Under eaves, balconies, and covered outdoor areas
- Around air conditioning units, solar panels, and rooftop equipment
- Bridge underpasses and similar structures
- Near food sources such as outdoor dining areas and waste disposal points
Prevention
Sanitation Measures
- Do not feed them, either intentionally or unintentionally.
- Feed pets indoors or remove any uneaten pet food immediately after they have finished.
- Ensure all rubbish bins have secure, tight-fitting lids.
- Use enclosed compost bins and do not add meat or cooked food scraps.
- Clean up food scraps and spills immediately in outdoor dining areas.
Exclusion Methods
- The most effective prevention is to block their access to nesting sites.
- Seal all holes and gaps in your roof, eaves, and walls. Use durable materials like wire mesh, metal flashing, or expanding foam.
- Install bird-proofing spikes or sloping guards on ledges, beams, and pipes where they might roost or nest.
- Cover large open structures like sheds or pergolas with bird netting.
- Install gutter guards to prevent them from building nests in your gutters.
Landscaping Tips
- Avoid planting dense, shrubby exotic trees and palms that mynas favour for roosting.
- Instead, plant local native shrubs and trees that support native birds. A complex, multi-layered native garden is less attractive to mynas, which prefer open lawns for foraging.
- Prune dense trees to open up the canopy and make them less suitable for large communal roosts.
- Do not provide artificial food sources in the garden.
Monitoring Strategies
- Regularly inspect your building for potential entry points or signs of nesting activity.
- Be observant of the bird life in your garden. A sudden increase in myna numbers and a decrease in native birds is a key sign of a problem.
- Many local councils and community groups run trapping programs. Participating in these can help monitor and control the local population.
Environmental Modification
- The key modification is habitat restoration that favours native species. Re-planting native vegetation can create habitats that are less suitable for mynas and provide more resources and refuge for native birds, allowing them to better compete.
- Reducing the amount of open lawn space can make foraging more difficult for them.
- On a community scale, modifying building designs to eliminate nesting cavities can be a long-term strategy.
Control Methods
Professional Treatment Methods
Chemical Control
There are no poisons registered for the control of Common Mynas in Australia. Poisoning is illegal and poses an unacceptable risk to native wildlife.
Biological Control
No biological control agents are available for this species.
Physical Control
This is the primary method of control. Professionals use techniques like trapping, shooting, and nest removal. Trapping, using large cage traps with a one-way entry system, is the most common and effective method, especially when conducted as part of a coordinated community program. Proofing buildings to deny them nesting sites is also a key professional service.
Integrated Approach
A successful Integrated Pest Management (IPM) program for mynas involves: 1) A community-led, coordinated trapping program to reduce the overall population. 2) Habitat modification to make areas less attractive (e.g., planting native species). 3) Physical exclusion and proofing of buildings to deny nesting sites. 4) Public education to stop feeding and to manage waste effectively.
DIY Treatment Options
Natural Remedies
There are no effective natural remedies. Deterrents like scare-eye balloons or reflective tape may provide very temporary relief but the birds quickly become habituated to them.
Home Made Traps
Many community groups provide plans and assistance for building your own humane cage trap (e.g., the 'PeeGees' trap). It is crucial that any DIY trapping is done humanely and according to local regulations regarding the dispatch and disposal of the captured birds.
Deterrent Methods
Water jets activated by motion sensors can be effective at deterring them from specific small areas. Some audio deterrents that play distress calls can also work temporarily.
Mechanical Control
The most effective mechanical control is trapping. Nest removal is also important; repeatedly removing nesting material from a cavity can persuade the birds to move elsewhere. This should be done with care, as the birds can be aggressive and nests can harbour mites.
Treatment Effectiveness
Success Rate
Trapping can be highly effective at reducing local numbers, especially when done as a coordinated community effort. Isolated, individual trapping has a lower impact on the overall population. Proofing a building is 100% effective at stopping nesting in that structure.
Timeframe
Reducing a local population through trapping is a long-term, ongoing effort. Proofing a house can be done in a day or two.
Follow Up Required
Trapping must be continuous to be effective. Exclusion work should be inspected annually for any new gaps or damage.
Seasonal Considerations
Trapping is most effective during the breeding season (spring/summer) when birds are actively seeking food for their young and are more territorial. However, it can be conducted year-round.
Application Techniques
- Humane trapping using food and water as bait, often with a live 'caller' bird to attract others.
- Targeted shooting by licensed professionals in specific agricultural or industrial settings (not for residential use).
- Physical installation of bird netting, spikes, and other proofing materials.
Professional Services
Professional Treatment Services
Chemical Control
There are no poisons registered for the control of Common Mynas in Australia. Poisoning is illegal and poses an unacceptable risk to native wildlife.
Biological Control
No biological control agents are available for this species.
Physical Control
This is the primary method of control. Professionals use techniques like trapping, shooting, and nest removal. Trapping, using large cage traps with a one-way entry system, is the most common and effective method, especially when conducted as part of a coordinated community program. Proofing buildings to deny them nesting sites is also a key professional service.
Integrated Approach
A successful Integrated Pest Management (IPM) program for mynas involves: 1) A community-led, coordinated trapping program to reduce the overall population. 2) Habitat modification to make areas less attractive (e.g., planting native species). 3) Physical exclusion and proofing of buildings to deny nesting sites. 4) Public education to stop feeding and to manage waste effectively.
Professional Treatment Costs
$400 - $1500+ for professional bird proofing (e.g., netting, spikes) and trapping programs.
Treatment Success Rates
Trapping can be highly effective at reducing local numbers, especially when done as a coordinated community effort. Isolated, individual trapping has a lower impact on the overall population. Proofing a building is 100% effective at stopping nesting in that structure.
Treatment Timeframe
Reducing a local population through trapping is a long-term, ongoing effort. Proofing a house can be done in a day or two.
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Browse All ProvidersSeasonal Patterns
Spring Activity
The start of the breeding season. Pairs become highly territorial, aggressively defend nesting sites, and begin nest construction. This is a key time for homeowners to notice birds trying to enter their roofs.
Summer Activity
Peak breeding season. Mynas are busy raising young, which requires intensive foraging for insects. Family groups are common, and newly fledged juveniles are present.
Autumn Activity
Breeding may continue, but the main behavioural shift is the gathering of birds into larger flocks. They start to form large, communal roosts in the late afternoon.
Winter Activity
Non-breeding season. The birds are highly social, gathering in very large, noisy communal roosts at night for warmth and safety. Their diet may shift to include more fruit and scavenged food.
Breeding Season
Primarily September to March, but can be extended.
Peak Activity Period
Nesting infestations are a problem in spring/summer. Nuisance from large roosts is a problem in autumn/winter. Scavenging is a year-round issue.
Environmental Factors
Temperature Effects
Warm weather promotes breeding and insect availability.
Humidity Effects
No strong influence.
Photoperiod Effects
Increasing day length in spring is a key trigger for the onset of breeding behaviour.
Weather Patterns
They are resilient to most weather but may seek more robust shelter for nesting and roosting during periods of heavy rain or wind.
Legal Considerations
Legal Considerations
Professional pest control operators must be licensed and comply with relevant state and local regulations regarding bird control treatments. Most bird species in Australia are not protected, allowing for standard pest control methods. However, it's recommended to verify specific regulations in your area before implementing control measures.
Frequently Asked Questions
Are Common Mynas and Noisy Miners the same bird?
No, they are completely different species and this is a very common point of confusion. The Common Myna (*Acridotheres tristis*) is an introduced pest from Asia. It has a chocolate-brown body, a black head, and a yellow beak and eye-patch. The Noisy Miner (*Manorina melanocephala*) is a native Australian honeyeater. It is mostly grey, with a white belly, a black cap on its head, and also has a yellow beak and eye-patch. While both are very common in urban areas and can be aggressive, the Noisy Miner is a protected native species, whereas the Common Myna is an invasive pest. The easiest way to tell them apart is the body colour: if it's brown, it's a Myna; if it's grey, it's a native Miner.
Why are Common Mynas considered such a bad pest?
Common Mynas are considered a major pest for two main reasons: their environmental impact and their urban nuisance value. Environmentally, they are a significant threat to Australia's native biodiversity. They are cavity nesters and are extremely aggressive, out-competing native birds like parrots, rosellas, and kookaburras for scarce nesting hollows. They will physically evict native birds, destroy their eggs, and kill their chicks. In urban areas, they become a nuisance by forming massive, noisy communal roosts in trees and on buildings, which create incredible amounts of mess from droppings. They scavenge aggressively at outdoor cafes and can carry bird mites from their nests into people's homes. Their combined impact on both wildlife and human amenity is what makes them one of Australia's most disliked pests.
How can I stop mynas from nesting in my roof?
The only guaranteed way to stop mynas from nesting in your roof is through physical exclusion. You must meticulously inspect your roofline, eaves, and external walls to find every single hole or gap they could use to get in. Mynas can squeeze through surprisingly small openings. Once you have identified all potential entry points, you must seal them permanently with durable materials. Use strong wire mesh (not chicken wire, which they can push through), metal flashing, wood, or expanding foam to block every hole. Pay special attention to gaps where tiles meet the gutter, broken roof tiles, and vents. If a nest is already active, you may need a professional to remove it first, as the parents can be very aggressive and the nest will be full of parasites.
What is the most effective way to control Common Mynas on my property?
A multi-faceted approach is most effective. First, remove any incentives for them to be there: do not leave pet food out, secure your bins, and don't feed them. Second, modify the habitat by blocking their access to all potential nesting sites on your house. Third, for reducing the local population, humane trapping is the most effective method recommended by experts and community groups. Special cage traps are designed to capture mynas without harming other birds. Many local councils or Landcare groups run community trapping programs and can provide advice, loan traps, and assist with the humane dispatch of captured birds, which is a legal requirement. A single person trapping has a limited effect, but a coordinated neighbourhood effort can significantly reduce their numbers and impact.
I have a myna nest in my roof. What should I do about bird mites?
A myna nest in your roof is a ticking time bomb for a bird mite infestation. Bird mites live in the nest and feed on the blood of the birds. When the myna chicks fledge and the family abandons the nest, the mites' food source is gone. Hungry and searching for a new host, they will migrate from the nest and enter your house through tiny cracks in the ceiling, light fittings, and vents. To prevent this, the nest must be removed, but this must be done carefully. It is best to engage a professional pest controller. They can treat the nest and surrounding area with a suitable insecticide to kill the mites *before* removing the nest material. This prevents the mites from scattering into your home during the removal process. After the nest is gone, the entry point the mynas were using must be permanently sealed to prevent re-infestation.
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